I passed! It took 6 hours of flying this adorable Cub on Lake Washington and a check ride.

Yes, I was nervous during my check ride — and the fact that my examiner was my original flight instructor’s daughter, whom I had specifically asked to give me my test, only added to my nerves. He showed up after I finished specifically to congratulate me on my new rating! What a treat to see him again after a couple of years, and how meaningful that she was willing to do this for me.

Michelle (my examiner) and David (my PPL instructor and her Dad) at the dock at Kenmore Air.

I’m feeling pretty pumped. It would have been easy to just let it go — I honestly thought about calling the whole thing off before it began — I am so thrilled I did it! 

Halibut fishing was one of those things I’d been wanting to try — I love halibut, and it’s just one of those experiences I hadn’t had yet. So I finally did it.

It was, overall, a pleasant day. The weather was beautiful, and most of the people on the boat were nice — except for the one young guy who was loud, not terribly bright, and more than a little annoying. Every group has one.

The highlight of the day: I caught the biggest halibut on the boat!

Then I landed a Ling Cod

Then I lost my lure and I was done for the day. We had to go 33 miles west of the coast to get our catch, but we did it.

We left the marina in Neah Bay at 5:15am and returned around 5:00 pm. Long day, with beautiful weather.

Back at the dock in Neah Bay, there were guys set up to fillet the fish. Not really my preference, but since I have no idea how to process a fish, I handed it over and let them do their thing.

My freezer is now stocked with about 14 pounds of fish – which, when you add in the cost of the trip, is no bargain. But now I know what halibut fishing is like, and that was the whole point.

And now I start traveling. It will take two days to get home.

I leave Bunaken Island this morning and Sulawesi tomorrow. I stop in Bali, then fly through South Korea to home.

Yesterday was a joy. I rented a scooter , which had to have the front wheel swapped out to fix a flat tire before I could take it.

I road all of the roads on the island, about 4 miles worth. Then I went to two beaches. The second was the best, and I had the place all to myself.

For lunch, I headed to a resort (Queen’s Resort) that allows anyone to come use their pool. They offered massage, so I had a Javanese one hour work over. It was great!

I met Man, who works there. She wanted to take photos together. She is from an island near The Phillipines.

I then headed back to the village. A neighbor with 20-something boys had speakers on their porch turned up to the highest level. The neighbors asked them to turn it down, even called the police. The boys said no. The police said the rules are that they can play the music until 11pm.

I moved. Aci helped me get a room outside the village at Widi’s place, Panorama Dive Center. What a beautiful venue. I had dinner with the other guests, and enjoyed a peaceful, sleep filled last night on Bunaken.

From goats in the boats and on the beach, Bunaken is one surprise after another.

Most locals have no hot water, no washing machines or dryers (the resorts must) no air conditioning and no cars, just scooters.

These are just a few photos to provide a feel for the place.

The last time I went diving was 2016, in the Bay of Pigs in Cuba with Scott. Ten years is a long time, and I’ll admit I was a little nervous. No need! It all came flooding back instantly — and wow, what a day!

Widi showed up just before 8:00 am with the equipment and the boat.

We then went to pick up Indra, my guide for the day.

After splashing off the side of the boat and sinking slowly to about 30 feet, the underwater world was simply incredible. At one point we were surrounded by swarms of fish — it felt beyond dreamlike. Enormous sea turtles glided past us throughout all three dives, and by the end of the day we’d swum alongside more than 20 of them!

Some of the turtles were hiding in caves, others just glided by. The coral was healthy, vibrant and teeming with life. Going underwater is so much like visiting another dimension — it literally took my breath away.

We are going for two more dives tomorrow. Hooray!

All flights went smoothly yesterday and I arrived in Northern Sulawesi at about 7pm after leaving Toraja at 5am. Long day.

And so beautiful! The drive out of Toraja to the north was through lush rainforest on a windy mountain road.

Manado is an energetic city, much more upscale than Rantepao in context of this part of Indonesia. I keep feeling like it’s a little bit the land of crushed dreams.

The poverty here is heart breaking and life is a struggle. There are huge lines at the gas stations that are open, as there is a limit on subsidized fuel.

And still there’s humor, even in the warning sign in my hotel room.

Now I’m off to snorkel, scuba and to enjoy the sun and sea before heading home. Bunaken Island is about 4 miles around, so there’s not much here. The power is inconsistent and the internet is spotty. There ARE a lot of boats and it seems the only business is tourism. Bunaken is definitely the poorest place I’ve visited in Indonesia. I hope my visit helps a few people live a bit better.

I’m staying at a bare bones homestay with Aci. She is so sweet and inviting. The room is basic, there is no AC or hot water, and still I’m so glad I’m here rather than at a fancier place (there are two).

She arranged all of my diving trips through her friend Widi, and she is serving me three home cooked meals a day! Here is Aci and my first lunch with her. it was delicious!

I’m doing three dives tomorrow and two the following day with my guide Indra. I met him today and gathered the gear we need for tomorrow.

The water is crystal clear blue and there is coral everywhere. The boat will arrive at 8am tomorrow. I can’t wait!

I had another day on the back of a scooter visiting grave sites in Tana Toraja.

My guide today was Paulus, a rather dull guy, but he was fine.

We visited many cliff sites where bodies are buried in caves, or just perched among the cliffs.

Then we went to visit a coffee exporter. The connection was through my friend Scott McMartin- my coffee roaster, past Starbucks coffee department colleague.

What fun!! We cupped coffee and then visited the processing plant. I totally geeked out and had such a good time! I do love coffee.

Riding in the back of a scooter for two days was a lot, and totally worth it!!

I saw amazing scenery and fully immersed in the Toraja culture. I’m grateful for the experience.

This morning, early, before the clouds and rains started, I headed straight to the hills to visit the Dharma Girl.

I chose to drive a loop in order to take in as much as possible. It’s slow going on a 100cc scooter on rough, windy roads, even when there is no traffic.

When I arrived at the gate to Dharma Girl, it was locked, so I ventured down a trail through some coffee fields.

The guys showed up at 8:30 am to unlock the gate (opening was supposed to be 8:00) and I was alone inside. The grounds were beautiful. I don’t know the story of Dharma Girl, other than the population of Buddhists in the country is quite low – .7%, so a buddhist statue is unusual. There are only two in Bali.

On the way down, I almost crashed a couple of times looking around. The rice fields, the coffee farms and the mountains were breathtaking.

A perfect morning. Cool, calm and so scenic. Tomorrow, I head back to the craziness…..to catch my flight to Sulawesi on April 1.

And first, sunset on the beach